Now we get down to the bit where I'm going to aggravate a few people. The recommendations here are based on my own tastes (with explanations) and my own personal observations. If you want the 'official tourism line' go to a web site paid for by government or the industry. (back on the first page)
Readers are warned that any prices quoted here are from when the Guide was first written, circa 2000 - and are certain to be much out of date!
Triple Falls is just past the central fork, on the south road (to St Anthony). I stayed there for about 4 weeks in 1997 in a small trailer I hauled out. Large sites, well distributed over a tree covered area. Clean and modern support services, lots of hot water in the showers. Group camping and monthly rates available, they were planning an expansion. Rates in 1999 : full service $16 (32) / unserviced $12 (18) / tent $10 (10).
A total of six housekeeping cabins, about 15 minutes drive from LAM. Each has two small rooms with double beds, full bath, and a fully equipped kitchen / living room. Clean, modern, even a BBQ on the porch. We stayed there for about 3 weeks in 1996, then again in 2010, and can't recommend this place more highly. A bit snug for four, but what a deal at $60 plus $7 per extra person! Seasonal, book NOW if you want to stand any chance of grabbing one of these.
Operated by Donna Budgell, Fishing Point is very last building on the south road out to the point in St Anthony. Four small rooms are tucked in this tiny house - but unlike most B & B's, the owners don't live there. This makes for quiet privacy, and the house is smack on the water offering a great view of all the goings on in the harbour. Prices are extremely reasonable - about $35 - $40 a night. The house also features a fully equipped kitchen, which is especially handy for anyone making a longer stay. I have stayed here happily during my last several contracts in the region.
Northern Delight is on the main road towards LAM on the shore side, about 5 minutes from the site. The only licensed restaurant until St Anthony. We just about lived there in 1996, then again in 2010. GREAT seafood, large portions and reasonable prices. If you like home cooking, and want a genuine 'taste of Newfoundland' this is the only choice. Simple interior, nothing fancy but a great place to relax. Best cod's tongue on Newfoundland - although all the seafood here is highly recommended!
Fishing Point Rd is the extension of the right hand road in St Anthony - just keep going out until the windswept point. The Lightkeepers Cafe is built in the old house for the original - lightkeeper!. Watch for whales and icebergs right from the table. High quality food, good presentation, excellent and friendly service. A bit expensive for my budget, but the place to go for a special meal. Opens for late afternoon and evening only.
Norman Young is the carver of whale bone, antler and soapstone. The small gallery / shop is on the shore side of the main road along the cove. His work ranges from small broaches to large table pieces. All of it shows excellent design and craftsmanship, with a blending of traditional, native and modern designs.
I don't have a name for this old fellow. He is a wood carver, and his small shop is located in Noddy Nay, on the ocean side. You can spot it by the large wooden 'light house' structure he built on his front yard. Displaced by the collapse of the cod fishery, he discovered that people loved his small carvings of boats, wildlife and local life. His work has a natural 'folksy' quality I thought was wonderful. 'I make as much doing this as I did on the boats - and its a darn sight warmer..'
Paul Compton is the owner and captain of this 45 ft replica of a Norse freight vessel - the same type used by Lief Eiriksson 1000 years earlier. Why take a trip on a fishing boat when you could sail on a real knar? We met Paul in 1995 on our first trip to the area when we provided costumed 'colour' for the official launch of his Viking Saga. The boat sails out of the north end of Noddy Bay (turn at the 'lighthouse' mentioned above), and can be visited when tied to the pier. A two hour voyage costs about $30 - and well worth the price!
Note: Due to declining health after an accident, Paul was forced to sell the Viking Saga. As of about 2008, rumour has placed the ship in the Halifax area, situation unknown.
You might have gathered this by now, but Fishing Point is a tongue of rock that makes up the outer barrier for the St Anthony harbour. Its about a 10 - 15 walk out from town along the dirt road to the very tip. The rock falls in broken ledges into the ocean on all sides, with a series of trails along the edge and down to the shore in spots. There are a number of small gravel beaches and hidden pockets. A great place to spend an afternoon watching the waves and birds.
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